The 2019 Gaja Barolo Conteisa opens with a piercingly pure nose of mentholatum, camphor, and eucalyptus, layered with strawberry, rose, and dried apricot. Intensely aromatic, it hints at dried flowers, incense, allspice, and leather. On the palate, it’s finely poised with a Lafite-like sense of balance: silky yet structured, with chewy, tea-like tannins and a long, tannic finish. This is a wine of high tone and quiet sophistication, more cerebral than playful, and likely best appreciated with time and patience.